Are you headed for a Japanese quarantine? Here’s what you could be in for.

No sooner did I get out of my seven-day stay at the “Hotel Quarantine” when the government announced it would be changing the guidelines for those entering Japan.

Last week, Prime Minister Fumio Kishida announced that the quarantine period will be reduced from seven to three days for those who have received their booster shots to protect themselves from COVID-19. And those individuals arriving from countries where the highly contagious omicron variant of the virus is “under control” will be exempted from quarantining at a designated facility altogether. That means you’ll be able to keep an eye on your health from the comfort of your own home.

Still, unless you meet the new requirements for a no-quarantine entry, chances are that you’ll need to follow some sort of regimen whether you’re a citizen returning from a business trip or an exchange student who has been waiting a long time to get here. Also, and I hate to be grim on this, we still can’t rule out the possibility of a new coronavirus variant making all of our lives miserable again.

Now that I’ve returned to the bustle of Tokyo, my own re-entry in mid-February is already starting to feel like a distant memory. However, I wanted to share the experience to let people know what they might be in for when they arrive.

One thing to remember, however: Every experience is different. I was lucky to get a glimpse of Mount Fuji every morning while I was holed up at a hotel near Haneda Airport, but some people may not have the same view.

In any case, here’s how my own stay panned out.

Plan and prep

The preparation to get into Japan starts days before you even head to the airport you’re flying out of. There’s a string of different tasks that need to be checked off prior to departure, the first being to check what restrictions are in place for the country you have stayed in for 14 days before your arrival in Japan.

This can be done on the Ministry of Foreign Affairs website, but be warned — the guidelines are confusing. For some in-depth advice (and, unfortunately, some horror stories), Facebook’s Return to Japan Support Group has a wealth of firsthand accounts and information.

Most people have to take a COVID-19 test within 72 hours prior to departure. Testing is something you will probably be used to if you have traveled at all during the pandemic, but testing for arrival in Japan is a little more complicated.

Only some testing methods are valid for travel to Japan, including PCR and the loop-mediated isothermal amplification method known as LAMP. If your test is not one of these, you won’t be allowed to board the plane — let alone pass through the numerous checks on arrival in Japan. You will also need an official MOFA testing form filled out by a medical professional. This can be very difficult to secure and seems to be the bane of many travelers, though my own experience went smoothly. Spend time researching testing companies.

When you get the MOFA form signed, make sure all your information — your name (including your middle name), passport number and date of birth — is correct. Any mistakes could cause unwanted problems down the line.

Pack provisions for your quarantine. The day before I left for the airport, I took a trip to the supermarket to buy some staples for my stay. I’m a vegetarian and had heard tales of small portion sizes and unexciting meals served during quarantine. I stocked my bag with snacks to nibble on throughout the day including vegetarian frankfurters, biscuits, crackers and potato chips. One thing I overlooked, but recommend packing, is any medication you need (with a copy of your prescription) or over-the-counter items to help with upset stomachs and the like.

Next up: the apps. You’ll need to download both the MySOS app, which keeps track of where you are during the quarantine period, and COCOA, which checks for any contact with individuals who have tested positive for COVID-19. You’ll also need to have the Google Maps app active on your smartphone.

A working smartphone is needed to enter the country (I was told there was also the possibility of renting one upon arrival at the airport), but a working Japanese sim card is not. The Wi-Fi connection at Haneda and Narita airports is strong and available for new arrivals to use.

Arrival at the airport

The real journey begins at the airport you fly out of. Japan Airlines staff verified my visa, my test paperwork and pointed me to a QR code where I was told to fill in an online health questionnaire.

One positive of pandemic travel is the amount of space. I counted a grand total of 15 passengers on my flight from London. This meant that I could enjoy an almost glorious sleep sprawled out across a whole row of seats, which made a world of difference on arrival. Aboard the plane you will be asked to complete the Written Pledge form, which confirms you understand the rules of quarantine.

After my long-haul flight, I arrived in Japan to a series of checkpoints that sit on a prescribed route through immigration — there’s more paperwork at each stop and you’re given a green tag to wear on your wrist, though I’m not sure it does anything but identify you as an arrival. The washrooms are taped off, so make sure to go before the plane lands. What seems like dozens — maybe hundreds — of staff line the route, many of them security guards.

My main advice for your arrival is to simply be patient. The process has, thankfully, been streamlined after outrageous reports of passengers spending upward of six hours trying to enter the country. Still, it took about four hours from landing at Haneda to arriving at my hotel. Keep your hand luggage to a minimum, bring snacks, a drink and something to read. The airport staff are friendly and many can speak English well.

Now we come to the journey’s on-arrival testing. This process involves spitting into a plastic vial in a cordoned off part of the airport, where photos of lemons and umeboshi (pickled plums) cheerfully look down at you to help get the salivary glands going. I noticed this part was a challenge for some people, especially after a long flight; children seemed to find this task particularly tricky.

After the checkpoints, you eventually arrive at the results room. Here you’ll sit with your fellow travelers and be called up according to your number to get your test result. This room had working vending machines and washrooms when I was there.

If your test is negative, you will be moved onto a bus and whisked off to a quarantine hotel (people who tested positive were simply taken to a different hotel).

The mental quarantine

It’ll be fine, I told myself, quarantine is just something I’ve got to do. Plus, I was with my partner. Throughout the process, however, staff told me that we would be in separate rooms. This wasn’t the case: upon arrival at the hotel, groups (couples and families) were asked to come forward first and we were assigned a twin room.

The tired but amiable staff talked us through how the whole thing worked. They gave me an electronic thermometer to take my body temperature at 8 a.m. everyday; meals would be delivered at 8:30 a.m., 12 p.m. and 5 p.m; alcohol and smoking are forbidden. Food deliveries are OK.

I won the hotel lottery. My room had a sofa, a large smart TV, a fridge, cups and glasses, bottled water, a kettle, coffee (not instant) and tea.

Mornings start with an announcement just before 8 a.m., first in Japanese and then in English: “We will soon be delivering your meals to your room, please refrain from going outside of your room.”

Another announcement is made 30 minutes later: “May I have your attention please, we have delivered your meals outside of your room.” The same announcement plays before every mealtime.

A bento is left outside your door in a plastic bag. The food varies depending on the hotel, but I was glad I brought extra supplies. The vegetarian meals were all vegan and, although healthy, were really small and not very exciting. It’s worth noting that there have been reports of some hotels not being able to supply meals to suit various dietary requirements.

Breakfast was the same each morning, a variation of beans and salad. Meat eaters can enjoy much more exciting treats such as fish, hamburg steak and an egg, but servings are still small and lack fruit or meaningful portions of vegetables. The hotel I was at allowed for food to be delivered by services such as Uber Eats, but these services aren’t available at every quarantine location. Plus there are rules about what items can be delivered: No raw food, frozen food, alcohol or anything that may cause a fire.

The six days of quarantine weren’t so bad. Time passed. I had to do another spit test on days two and six; I also had to complete location check-ins and health check-ups, and take automated video calls from the MySOS app.

The internet connection was decent, so I was able to catch up on some Netflix viewing (bring an HDMI cord in case you don’t get a smart TV). There was enough room for exercise and, although the window in my room didn’t open, the view kept me sane. I watched people and boats below, gazed at the industrial landscape of Kawasaki in the distance, and on clear days Mount Fuji even made a dazzling appearance.

For me, the fourth day was the hardest. It rained all day and my dinner was really small and bland. Staying positive is vital: Remember that this will not continue forever and that you will get out. Don’t let frustrations and anger take over, instead make sure to move your body, if just for some stretching, shower, get dressed each day (even if it’s just loungewear) and keep in contact with family and friends. It all helps.

Leaving and getting home

Eventually, after the final COVID-19 test, you leave your hotel room behind. My test came on the sixth day, but from March that test will happen on the third day of wherever you are quarantining from. I also didn’t have the convenience of using public transport to make my way home, another condition that will change from March as trains, buses and taxis are once again options for new arrivals.

The options in front of me were renting a car, getting someone to collect me, taking a free shuttle bus into Tokyo or booking a private transfer. I chose to take the shuttle, thankfully it made a stop that was a 40-minute walk from my home. I stashed my hefty suitcase at a coin locker near the station, and came back for it the next day when I was allowed to use public transport again. Free at last, my partner and I bought some beer and ordered pizza for our first dinner out of quarantine and back in Japan. Just as every situation is different, so is everyone’s reward.